Cityscape nestled in nature: Vancouver and it's island's
I am mostly a nature girl, but I appreciate some city time. Finding cities nestled in nature is a hunt I am on. So far Cape Town and Vancouver top my list of such places. I've visited Vancouver a few times, but this time around I decided to check out the islands. And after seeing them, I would happily return and explore more, and skip Vancouver all together.
I had heard that the islands were beautiful and attracted an eclectic mix of lefty type people. The beauty part was an understatement. The islands are exquisite. The people part was a bit true but not all. What did seem shared amongst the people I saw and met, was a love for the land and a slower pace. And each area - the islands create a natural diversity of pocketed community - had its own vibe and culture. All of them though had an ethic of being more open to alternative ways and a friendliness that followed suite.
We stayed on Denmen Island for five days. It's known for its farming community, and we stayed on a farm. This of course was pure heaven. Ruya ran naked with only her purple shoes on, finding eggs, chasing the sheep, feeding rabbits, picking berries, apples, tomatoes. Aziz Elan waved frantically at the sheep with sweet sounds of Ooh and Aah. Trees surrounded us, hens visited us in the morning, and sheep hung out under our veranda. The owner of the farm spins her own yarn from her sheep wool. She showed us the process and my daughter stood engrossed watching a batch of fluffy wool become yarn. I bought a scarf from her, not only for its beauty but it's heritage. The place was very inexpensive, with a large house and just so much space to wander freely. It's a gem of a find: https://airbnb.com/rooms/6883025?s=41&user_id=1498267&ref_device_id=8ded37955ad46cda0194bd8ca1efc0c48572b71e
Denmen is small and less visited than the more touristy Hornby island beside it. We visited Hornby once but as we drove onto the island the immense que of cars signaled that we would have to get in line immediately if we wanted to return before nightfall. That was an awful four hours and never again shall we go to Hornby in season. Staying on Denmen though proved more than sufficient. The first day we visited the farmers market, but actually bought very little since the farm we stayed on provided so much. But Ruya and I got to eat coconut ice cream and people gaze. There is a free store in town, which as its namesake suggests, is a place where everything is free and donated. The one grocery store stocks enough to live, but not enough to really expand that living palate wise. But we managed just fine off it. Being there in August meant the land was ripe. So we ate what we picked. The island is known for its bounty. We spent most afternoons on the beach, picking oysters right off the rocks, breaking them open and eating them with the sea in our ears. And my children spent morning's in their favorite place, the vegetable patch, sampling beans, tomatoes, cabbage leaves and black berries.
The laid back atmosphere meant I got to swim naked - a local told me no one will say anything. The ocean was crisp, flat and embracing. The openness of the culture pervaded everything from relationship to lifestyle to nature. It's an island in the midst of change as people are leaving due to cut backs in ferry times. If I had the money now, I would buy property immediately. Since I don't I plan to visit again.
Getting to Denmen is easy. We chose to fly from SF, via Vancouver, onto Comox. The flight to Vancouver was the same price as adding an extra flight to Comox. Renting a car at Comox was very expensive though. Especially if you drop off in Vancouver. We drove back, overnighting at Nainamo where the ferry to Vancouver city departs. If I did it again I would drop off the car in Nainamo and go on foot onto the ferry, and bus from the port into Vancouver city.
Vancouver is a nesting place for most of my father's side of the family, including him. So it's been a return to visit spot for me over the last few years as I have focused on building a connection with them. Each time I am impressed by the beauty. It's one of the most nature filled cities I have seen. The geography limits its size, making it expensive and more beautiful due to less sprawl. It reminds me a bit of Cape Town: surrounded by sea and forest. It's incredibly child friendly. Playgrounds of various shapes are abundant. Stanley park, the ocean front, the easy access to forest, all sums up nature in access. I can breastfeed freely and my children can scream without much in the way of strong gazes. Diet wise it's perfect. Fresh, organic produce, salmon, dark maple syrup, even rooibos latte's. And Ruya's favorite meal, sushi, is on every corner. It is expensive and I think best visited when it's warm so the nature can really be enjoyed. We struggled to find a reasonably priced place for our budget in the city. Our two Airbnb experiences proved less than optimal and caused me enough stress to invoke a desire to stay put for a while. This is probably a good thing because next up is Fairfax, California for seven weeks. And after that an adventure in what it might mean to be nomadic and have a home.