California Road Trip: Naked Springs, Red Woods and Giraffe
After a month in the bay area and just before leaving the US, we got on the road and did a little ten day journey. It will be some months before we can do something like this again, and in the midst of it we celebrated Ruya's second birthday.
We started with four days in Middletown. The timing was high summer so we hit over thirty degree hit (104 fahrenheit). Our aim was to spend most days at Harbin hot springs. Harbin is a hippy resort of note. It has been around for a long time, long enough to alter the conservative town it is set in. It is a place to be naked, soak in water and eat nourishing food. It is also always busy so you have to be okay with lots of naked bodies around you. The garden is usually quiet and during this journey Ruya got to pick plums, blackberries and the first ripe apples. Children are accepted but not encouraged. Silence is preferred around the pool area. But the large cool pool is where the kids get to be and its far enough away from the hot bath to allow for some expression. Ruya spent hours with me in the water. From never having really swam she went from dipping her toe in, to wanting to learn how to put her head under water. I savored floating my now large belly and the temporary feeling of weightlessness. We all ate heartily. The food is fresh, healthy and delicious. A rare combination when not cooking for yourself.
There is a variety of accommodation at Harbin but we opted for a cabin ten minutes away in the woods. The cabin was luxurious, cool and a respite. Price wise its more expensive to do it that way as you have to include the day fee at Harbin, but my pregnant belly appreciated the comfortable bed.
From Harbin we crossed towards the coast and stayed three days in Guerneville, on the Russian River. The weather got cooler, the trees got taller. Imagine towering red woods next to a placid river. We spent time between the forest and the river, floating and walking. Whilst the beauty is immaculate mid summer makes it populated. The redwood forest has set paths and is a bit like walking through a museum of trees. But you still get to be close to the power of those trees and its an easy stride for a two year old. Canoes are cheap to rent and my partner expertly paddled us up and down the river. Its a very relaxed river, easy to swim in and float on. Really perfect for children. Ruya waded in as far as she could go and got to swim near ducks and tiny fish. Watch out for glass though, especially around high season.
Guerneville is a very gay friendly town, wealthy too with expensive houses lining the river. For a small town it has a large downtown. We struggled finding food that met our expectations. In the end we opted most days for the smoothie place in town called Blended choice - tasty and vital drinks and sandwiches. Noble folk ice cream and pie bar is a must visit. The day I went they had lavender honey ice cream which tastes as amazing as it sounds.
By the time we left the Russian River we were ready for less people. And we got exactly that. Point Arena is a very small and not much there kind of town. Most places are only open from Wednesday until to Saturday. It is a place to go to get away from everything. We stayed at a totally solar powered house, with compost toilet and no cell reception. The silence was almost pressing. We were surrounded by trees, no person or house in sight. Ruya ate handfuls of huckleberries that she found in the trees on the property. We spent afternoons exploring the nearby beaches and forest. A man who works at the local gas station gave us advice on where to go. There is a sandy beach five minutes south of town, just perfect for toddlers to wade freely. And a winding walk along the cliff edge with beautiful views, just north of town.
The most surprising thing though was finding African wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Point Arena is home to B. Bryan Preserve. We went on the tour they offer, an hour and a half drive through the reserve. The drive is short but the animals are bountiful. Zebra, antelope, giraffe, roan and sable all seem happy in the space they have. Its definitely not a zoo or a safari. The animals have space to move and exist, and you get very close to them. It allowed us to show Ruya some wildlife - she even fed a giraffe some apple. The tour guide and owner is a bit crass and keeps himself entertained with his own humor, but he is also honest, sincere and doing essential work to keep alive endangered species.
It was emotional to be back in the Mendocino area. The foggy weather even in July; the wild coast and pacific ocean; the sense of space and earth. Ruya was born in this county and I would have chosen it again as a birth spot if not for other constraints. I got to see Ruya's midwife and have her touch on my belly. It felt like a blessing for the coming birth.
Travel is usually a way of life but this time we got to have a road trip journey that felt like a real holiday.
We used airbnb for our trip. These are three places we stayed in. They are all very different and excellent in their own right. All children friendly too.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1249414
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/68607
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3043729
