Dubrovnik, Croatia: Arboretum and Tortoises

I don't often get sad to leave a place. I did this time. Usually that means I want to come back. The sadness sprung from a combination of place and space. We scored in place: Dubrovnik in low season is gorgeous. We also scored in space: our Airbnb was a win. We found a fairy tale cottage with a garden and tortoises, and a family who embraced us. We might not return here exactly but Croatia will be a return nest for sure. And if ever in Dubrovnik then fairy tale cottage it is: https://airbnb.com/rooms/2097298?s=8&user_id=1498267&ref_device_id=16637f23e44e161d4604a9c887ee13f3273a6f02

First up Dubrovnik is incredibly beautiful. And I would loathe to be here in high season. We came mid March until the end of April. It's still a bit cold and rainy, and technically off season, so it's quiet and local. You can still feel the tourist vibe but it's not in your face unless you go to old town. Dubrovnik proved to be just to taken over by a tourist economy. Still it's well worth a visit and a good first step into Croatia. 

We started our stay in Trestno, an area about twenty minutes outside of Dubrovnik. It's the famed location for the game of thrones series, of which there are plenty tours for around the city. I chose it because it was a bit more rural and available at last minute on our way out of Belgrade. It's tiny, there isn't even a grocery store. There is a luscious garden - the Arboretum- with a pond overseen by a statue of Neptune, grassy patches, flowers, sea view and loquat trees. Around our apartment were wild gardens and olive groves. We spent two weeks there and I treasured the walk hand in hand with Ruya, down the stone path, past the church, over the little bridge and into the secret garden. We spoke about green figs ripening - it's hard to wait for a juicy, ripe fig when you are two and even thirty five. We ran past the loud, black dog. We collected lemons and found bamboo sticks to fish with in the pond. We watched tiny frogs swim in the algae and built mud pies. I spent half of this time alone with my children and it was nature filled happiness. The only drawback was it was a bit isolated for me. I took the bus a few times but with little kids I prefer having a small grocery within walking distance, a cafe maybe and playground.

I got all of that in Lapad bay where we spent a month. Lapad is the perfect spot if you have children. A pedestrian walk way circles the bay, lined with cafes and two decent playgrounds. Ice cream became a major talking point as everyone is eating it morning to night. I am strict about sugar - Croatians in general are not and kids eat a ton of it. But with it abundantly in our face ice cream had to happen once a week for my toddler to feel part of the vibe. In general I didn't feel a knit with other mothers. Many smoke around their kids, they don't often play actively with them, everyone has a pram/stroller and of course the junk food. But interactions were always friendly, and I had some lovely conversations here and there about what it's like to live in Dubrovnik. There are lots of beaches around but few with sand. The pebbles proved useful though with a seven month old in tow, as I could find big ones for him to eat.

Though we tried to avoid old town as it is now a tourist web, you end up there because you have to. The ferry to Locum island goes from old town port and it's where the shopping is. We didn't really shop but we did go to Locum twice. Ruya chased wild rabbits and Aziz checked out the many peacocks. It's a small and very pretty island that no-one lives on. Easy to get in fifteen minutes across water.

We ended the trip with a weekend on the island of Miljet. You drive one hour to the ferry, spend about forty minutes watching water pass by, and then half an hour to the nature reserve. There tucked away in green we spent the perfect birthday. We stayed right near one of the salt water lakes and circled it through the forest with songs and little running footsteps. Ruya immediately tried to swim, brave girl. Papa followed. I hummed to the pine trees and let my eyes drink in the lake. It was magic beauty. One of the very few places Ruya did not want to leave. 

As for food, the cheese, olive oil and fish are sublime. Truly amazing selection of cheese and fresh fish, oysters - go to Ston for them - and calamari. They don't do olives but olive oil is plentiful. I suggest hitting the green market at Gruz bay for fresh produce, it's local and a buzzing market. The produce in the shops is not good. 

Next time I think I will head to Korcula island. Dubrovnik was lovely but too taken over by tourists now. But there will be a next time. And perhaps it will be living in a boat.